I have a guitar question.
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@boxspring @alisynthesis Beat me to it, and nailed it! The thing to remember is that it's all about getting the strings to make solid contact with the fret you're capo-ing behind.
If you put the capo smack between the frets it will require more tension to press down the strings, which will pull them out of tune. Hence why you get the capo right behind the fret—strings will make solid contact with it without getting mashed onto the fretboard. (1/3)
This is where the capo tension thing is clutch: you want just enough pressure that the strings are solid on the fret and not buzzing, *and no more*. I've had ok experiences with Kyser type, but it depends on the guitar and you have to get it just so behind the fret. Acoustic guitars seem more tolerant of these. (2/3)
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@alisynthesis @samvarma I've had this (tho' often it's only a small amount off--good enough for live work). It can be intonation or fret height. OR, it can be about a particular capo. You're best off getting it as far up the neck as you can, i.e. if 3rd fret, get it as close to the 3rd fret as you can while still getting the open strings to ring. The other is that with a Shubb I adjust it to use the minimum tension I can get away with. With sprung capos (e.g. Kyser) you can't do that.
@boxspring @alisynthesis Beat me to it, and nailed it! The thing to remember is that it's all about getting the strings to make solid contact with the fret you're capo-ing behind.
If you put the capo smack between the frets it will require more tension to press down the strings, which will pull them out of tune. Hence why you get the capo right behind the fret—strings will make solid contact with it without getting mashed onto the fretboard. (1/3)
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This is where the capo tension thing is clutch: you want just enough pressure that the strings are solid on the fret and not buzzing, *and no more*. I've had ok experiences with Kyser type, but it depends on the guitar and you have to get it just so behind the fret. Acoustic guitars seem more tolerant of these. (2/3)
I used a G7 capo for years (great company, replaced it after years of use when it broke) but now I'm on a D'Addario adjustable trigger type since I have to throw it on on the fly during my shows
Finally, I'll mention that I tend to angle the capo so the bass side is positioned a bit further behind the fret than the treble. Feels like it helps prevent the high strings from buzzing. But this may have to do with the radius of the capo...
Good luck! (3/3)
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I have a guitar question. Is it normal to have to retune your guitar every time you put a capo on and take it off?
I'm not talking like the 8th fret, I'm talking like the 3rd fret.
Does this mean my guitar needs to be set up or is that just how it goes? The electric guitar I play now, which I love, has this behavior, and I don't remember experiencing it before with other guitars.
(Jimmy) Paging @samvarma
@alisynthesis @samvarma
I really try and avoid using a capo. When I do use one, I tune the guitar without the capo on. I’m sure once the capo is placed the tuning would be a few cents out, but not enough to be overly noticeable. -
I used a G7 capo for years (great company, replaced it after years of use when it broke) but now I'm on a D'Addario adjustable trigger type since I have to throw it on on the fly during my shows
Finally, I'll mention that I tend to angle the capo so the bass side is positioned a bit further behind the fret than the treble. Feels like it helps prevent the high strings from buzzing. But this may have to do with the radius of the capo...
Good luck! (3/3)
PS I don't think the nut, tuners or trems are main factors here. My guitar has a Floyd!
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@alisynthesis @samvarma I've had this (tho' often it's only a small amount off--good enough for live work). It can be intonation or fret height. OR, it can be about a particular capo. You're best off getting it as far up the neck as you can, i.e. if 3rd fret, get it as close to the 3rd fret as you can while still getting the open strings to ring. The other is that with a Shubb I adjust it to use the minimum tension I can get away with. With sprung capos (e.g. Kyser) you can't do that.
@alisynthesis
I just want echo what @boxspring and @samvarma have said: it’s not the tuners or the nut, but probably the capo tension. Try making a really hard barre at the third fret and checking the tuning of the fretted notes: I bet they’re sharp. When you crank down a capo, that’s what’s happening.Like Sam, I like the G7 capos because they get the tension almost perfect instantly. But they’re quite spendy. Other capos also do just fine, but adjustable tension usually helps. You want the minimum for the notes to fret cleanly.
Performer tip: when you capo and notes go sharp, you can often fix it without removing the capo. No, not with your tuners: give the playing length of string a little tug. That pulls a little more of the string under the capo, makes the pitch drop a bit, and when you remove the capo—voila!—your tuning magically returns to pre-capo pitch.
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I have a guitar question. Is it normal to have to retune your guitar every time you put a capo on and take it off?
I'm not talking like the 8th fret, I'm talking like the 3rd fret.
Does this mean my guitar needs to be set up or is that just how it goes? The electric guitar I play now, which I love, has this behavior, and I don't remember experiencing it before with other guitars.
(Jimmy) Paging @samvarma
@alisynthesis @samvarma
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I mean, the capo stretches the strings, it’s always a little sharp when you tune it first and then put the capo on. I’ve had this idea lately, to tune it with the capo on, when I’m planning to use it.
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It doesn’t go out of tune if you don’t use the capo? -
@alisynthesis @samvarma
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I mean, the capo stretches the strings, it’s always a little sharp when you tune it first and then put the capo on. I’ve had this idea lately, to tune it with the capo on, when I’m planning to use it.
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It doesn’t go out of tune if you don’t use the capo?@punishmenthurts @alisynthesis My guitar is in tune, always, almost supernaturally. Floyd Rose Tremolo installed, with a locking nut. Best I've ever had. It's a Suhr.
I sometimes have only a drum fill to get the capo on, and then start the next song on the downbeat. I can't afford to have anything happen to my tuning. The capo I use, the way I have its tension set, and where I place it, ensure that. (1/2)
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@punishmenthurts @alisynthesis My guitar is in tune, always, almost supernaturally. Floyd Rose Tremolo installed, with a locking nut. Best I've ever had. It's a Suhr.
I sometimes have only a drum fill to get the capo on, and then start the next song on the downbeat. I can't afford to have anything happen to my tuning. The capo I use, the way I have its tension set, and where I place it, ensure that. (1/2)
Jesse from the Gin Blossoms was impressed when I did that on stage with him. Pointed at my guitar and raised his eyebrows, "in tune!"
(2/2) -
I have a guitar question. Is it normal to have to retune your guitar every time you put a capo on and take it off?
I'm not talking like the 8th fret, I'm talking like the 3rd fret.
Does this mean my guitar needs to be set up or is that just how it goes? The electric guitar I play now, which I love, has this behavior, and I don't remember experiencing it before with other guitars.
(Jimmy) Paging @samvarma
Capos are basically "intonation ignorant" devices.
When you have a capo on, and then fret additional chords or notes above it, you are fretting the string in two places, putting an extra stretch on it which makes it go sharper compared to playing those notes without a capo.
If you have a keen ear that is sensitive to intonation, you will find yourself fiddling with the tuning to try to compensate for what the capo is doing, and then have to undo that when it comes off.
If your guitar has bad intonation to begin wtih, it will be even worse.
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